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Philippine Coffee

Is Benguet Coffee Arabica, Robusta or a Blend?

Benguet coffee is Arabica. The original variety is Typica, introduced under Spanish rule in the 1800s and grown in the province ever since. The confusion comes from two places: a handful of farms lower down do grow other species, and the words Benguet blend on a bag mean something else entirely. Let us untangle it.

What variety is Benguet coffee?

Typica Arabica, originally. It is one of the heritage coffees of the Philippines and is listed in the Slow Food movement's Ark of Taste, a catalogue of endangered traditional foods. ECHOstore's guide to Benguet coffee adds that many farmers have since planted other Arabica varieties, including Bourbon, Mundo Novo, San Ramon and Caturra. All of those are still Arabica.

Is any Robusta grown in Benguet?

A little. ECHOstore notes that a few farmers grow Robusta and Liberica at the lower elevations. It is the Arabica that defines Benguet coffee, though, and for a simple reason: the province's farms sit at roughly 1,400 to 2,000 metres above sea level, which is Arabica country. Robusta prefers warmer, lower ground. If a bag says Benguet coffee and nothing more, Arabica is the fair assumption, but the label should say so.

What is Benguet blend coffee?

A product name, not a variety. A blend is a roaster's mix of beans, and each roaster makes its own. Basilio Coffee's Benguet Blend, for example, is listed as 70 percent Arabica and 30 percent Excelsa, described as fruity and exotic with langka notes. Booky's guide to local coffee beans mentions another roaster's house blend made with Benguet Arabica and Cavite Robusta. Two blends with Benguet in them, two different recipes.

Is a blend worse than pure Benguet Arabica?

Not at all. It is built for a different job. Blends are designed to taste the same every time and to stand up to milk and sugar, and adding Robusta or Excelsa gives body and punch. A single origin is about tasting one place. If you drink lattes, a good blend may suit you better and cost less. If you drink black coffee and want to taste Benguet itself, buy the single origin.

How do you read the label?

Look for three things. The species, which should say Arabica or list the percentages in a blend. The town or farm, since Atok, La Trinidad, Tublay and Mankayan are the names that come up most. And the words single origin or blend. If none of that is on the bag, ask the seller. A good one will know.

Why does it matter whether it is authentic?

Because real Benguet coffee is scarce. ECHOstore warns that much of what is marketed as Benguet coffee is not authentic, and that buyers may be getting imported beans sold under the name. It is produced by small-scale farmers in limited volume, so it pays to trace the origin or buy from a seller you trust. Our guide to Sagada and Benguet coffee prices explains what a fair price looks like.

Where in Benguet is it grown, and how?

ECHOstore names Atok, La Trinidad, Tublay and Mankayan as the best-known coffee municipalities. The crop is mostly grown under the shade of pine or alnos trees, and many farms follow agroforestry practice. In Tublay, for example, farmers plant alnos, pine and fruit trees among the coffee. Processing depends on water. Farmers mostly use the washed method where water is available. The Ark of Taste describes whole cherries being dried in places where it is scarce, with women picking the ripe fruit and sorting the beans.

Is Benguet coffee the same as Baguio coffee?

People use the two names loosely, so it is worth a line. Baguio is the city where much of the region's coffee is sold, and Benguet is the province around it where the coffee is grown. Coffee labelled Baguio is often Benguet coffee or a blend, but the name alone does not tell you which. The label that helps you most is a specific one: a town, a farm or a cooperative.

How did Arabica get to Benguet?

A Spanish military governor first introduced it in 1875, and the lowland plantings failed. The next governor moved the plants to higher ground in 1877 and gave seedlings to local communities. When a later governor tried to force people to grow coffee, they destroyed the plantations in protest. It was a local chief from Kabayan, named Camising in the accounts, who took up the crop on his own terms and persuaded his neighbours. Then coffee rust devastated the plantations in 1899. The trees that survive today carry all of that history.

How much of the Cordillera's coffee comes from Benguet?

Most of it. Benguet produced 61 percent of the Cordillera's green coffee beans in 2023, ahead of Kalinga and Ifugao. It is still a small harvest by world standards, and much of it comes from backyard and small-scale farms. That is why the good bags sell out, and why Atok, the best-known coffee town in the province, gets so much attention.

What does this mean for taste and caffeine?

Arabica means a sweeter, brighter and less bitter cup with roughly half the caffeine of Robusta. Our guide to what Benguet coffee tastes like has the published tasting notes. We answer the same question for Sagada here, and our Sagada versus Benguet comparison helps you choose between the two. For the wider picture, our guide to Philippine coffee varieties covers all four species grown in the country.

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